Baby Bib with Knit Neck Ribbing

You'll need:

⅓ - ½ yard of two coordinating pieces of 100% flannel

3" x 12" piece of knit ribbing for neck opening

This amount of yardage will be enough for two bibs.

1. With wrong sides of both flannel pieces together, iron fabric so it lies flat.  Trace the pattern onto the fabric.

2.  Cut out the neck opening.

3.  Cut the knit ribbing into a 3" x 12" piece.  A rotary cutter makes this easy.

4.  Fold ribbing in half and stitch ¼" seam.

5.  Finger press seam open, then fold over keeping seam inside and cut edges even.  Mark with pins into fourths.

6.  Mark neck opening in fourths on wrong side of flannel piece that will be on the outside of bib.  Place inside piece of flannel right side up on flat surface, then ribbing, then outside piece of flannel right side down over ribbing making sure that all cut edges are even and marked fourths on ribbing match marked fourths on flannel.  This creates a sandwich with inside piece of flannel at bottom, then ribbing, then outside piece of flannel on top.  I usually place the seam in the ribbing at the center back of the neck opening.

7.  Being careful to stretch ribbing fully between quarter pin markings, stitch ¼" seam, catching all layers together and making sure all layers lie flat with no puckers.  If using a serger, be careful not to sew over pins or you will be replacing a knife.  This is the trickiest part of making the bib so sew slowly and carefully.

8.  Now turn fabric so right sides of both fabrics are showing with wrong sides inside bib.  Press.

9.  Add decorative edging on outside edges of fabric to secure both layers together.  My serger does a ⅜" wide seam and I use Pearl Crown thread in both loopers with regular thread in the needle. Pearl Crown thread is made by YLI and is available here in the Cotton Shop. I like Pearl Crown because it is quite heavy and has a sheen that gives it a decorative look.

10.  The trick to starting and ending in a straight line on a serger is to cut a notch in the fabric the width that your serger will stitch, then place your fabric under the needle with the edge touching the blade.  This way your stitching will be straight down the marked line and will end up on the line as well.  Simply stitch a few stitches over where you started and stitch off to the side.   Unravel the few stitches that are off to the side and take the loose thread ends, tie a double knot, then thread all three threads into a large-eyed needle and work them into the inside.  Put a bit of Fray Check on the area with the knot.

11.  If you've done everything right, then your ribbing seam will end up on the inside so the bib will be reversible.  Here's the back side.

Buckeye Bars

½ cup (1 stick) butter, softened
¾ cup crunchy peanut butter
22 reduced-fat NILLA wafers, crushed
2 cups powdered sugar
½ of 8-oz. tub Cool Whip Lite (Do Not Thaw)
3 squares Baker's semi-sweet chocolate

Line 8-inch square pan with foil, with ends of foil extending over sides.  Beat butter and peanut butter with mixer until blended.  Mix in wafer crumbs*.  Gradually add sugar, mixing well after each addition.  Press onto bottom of pan.  Microwave Cool Whip and chocolate in microwaveable bowl on HIGH 1 minute; stir.  Microwave 15 to 30 seconds more or until chocolate is melted; stir until blended.  Spread over peanut butter layer.  Refrigerate 2 hours.  Use foil handles to lift dessert from pan before cutting to serve.  25 servings

*I put wafers in gallon ziploc bag, push air out, seal and then crush wafers with heavy rolling pin until fine.  This keeps all the mess in the bag and not on the counter.

This is a modified version of the original recipe that results in 4 points each for WeightWatchers but worth every point.  You can use full fat Nilla wafers and Cool Whip if you want but these taste pretty yummy as is.

Sweater into Dress

I have been retrieving items from my Goodwill pile, so that I can try my hand at repurposing (making something new out of something old). For this project, I took a cotton sweater and refashioned it into a dress for a 2-year old. I love sweater dresses for girls, and this sweater is especially soft and washable. And it's easy on the budget!

I searched the internet for tutorials to help me out with this sweater makeover. There was one site that was most helpful in guiding me through the project, though I made some modifications (click here to see a very cool blog).

My old sweater:

First I trimmed the sweater into the shape of a dress, using another dress of my daughter's as a rough guide for length and width. The collar was carefully removed to make into the dress's new collar. And the sleeves were cut to use for the little dress sleeves.


I used the cap sleeves of the sweater (below) for the dress sleeves.

I folded each one in half, inside out. Then I pinned and sewed each one, creating sleeves that looked about the right size for a 2-year old arm (a tube shape, open on both ends). I was able to retain the hem from the original sleeve, which saved time and effort.

I used a zigzag stitch exclusively on this project.

After sewing the sleeves, I trimmed off the excess and then cut them at an angle on the end where they attach to the dress, so that they'd fit into the dress better. I just eyeballed it.

Next I pinned the sleeves into the dress by inserting the sleeve into the dress, right sides together, and pinned carefully. I cautiously pinned so as to leave a small space above the sleeve where the top of the shoulder lies, so that I didn't catch the sleeve while I sewed the small stretch of shoulder between the sleeve and the collar (not shown very well in this photo).

The picture below is a sleeve in the process of being sewn into the dress. I have this impatience issue when it comes to sewing projects. Once I decide to make something, I want to do it RIGHT NOW. And if that means using brown thread on a purple project, then so be it. I thought the brown actually blended really nicely, and it saved me a trip to the fabric store.

I sewed the pieces together in this order: 1) From bottom hems to armpits (because I didn't want to mess up my intact bottom hem band); 2) Across shoulders; 3) Sleeves onto dress. I did a lot of backstitching at the parts that would need to stretch, like the armpits. Here it is with the cute sleeves attached. Now we just need a collar!


Or maybe not just a collar. At this point, I realized that I didn't like the way the dress bubbled out and then came back in on the bottom hem. I wanted it to be more A-line, so I used some fabric chalk to draw straight lines down the sides of the dress, and re-sewed the side seams from the chest area all the way down to the bottom of the dress, following the chalk lines.

The collar was easier than I thought it would be. I pinned on the collar I'd removed, right sides facing, stretching out the collar a little as I pinned. After sewing a few inches on one side, I got worried that it wouldn't fit over her head. As I didn't want to wait until my girl got up from her nap (the patience thing again), I just trimmed the collar opening a little wider on one side (I'm also not very good with that whole measure twice rule.). You can see how one shoulder is slightly narrower than the other, but I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.

After that, it was done! I held my breath as I tried it on my daughter. Phew! It fits.



Now I'm just trying to decide if I should sew on this snappy IKEA flower, or just leave it in its pure purpley glory. What's your vote?


Side Note:
While hunting online for tips, I came across dozens of ideas for using old wool sweaters (bags, clothes, diaper covers, jewelry, etc.). I'm lamenting the fact that I gave away all of my wool sweaters before moving to Texas, because I could have made some great stuff out of them. So before you cart your old sweater off to the thrift store, think of me (or think of what YOU could make)!

Child's Chef Apron Pattern, Ages 2 - 7

I really like this pattern because the strap that goes around the neck is one continuous loop and is adjustable.

First, make a pattern using Pellon or freezer paper.

The first measurement in each group is for ages 6-7. In parentheses are ages 4-5 and 2-3. The length from the bottom of the apron to where the bib starts to curve varies from 16", to 14", to 13", depending on the size. The width of the apron bib ranges from 4", to 3¾", to 3½". Remember that the width of the bib is half the size of the completed width since you will be cutting the apron on the fold. The unfinished apron will measure 24" tall x 24" wide, 22" x 22" or 20" x 20".

You will cut 6 pieces of fabric to make the apron: the apron piece, 2 pieces of facing, and 3 pieces for the ties. First, place the apron pattern on the fold of the fabric and cut 1.

To make the pattern for the facing, lay a piece of freezer paper over the apron pattern and trace along the bib side as shown, making the width of the facing 2".

With fabric wrong sides together, cut 2 pieces to use for the facing. For the ties, cut three 2½" x 24", 22" or 20" long pieces, depending on the size you're making. Now for the construction.

1. Serge narrow edge of facing that will be placed at top edge of bib. Other narrow edge will be serged later. Fold over ½" at top narrow edge, press and topstitch along serged edge.

2. Serge top edge of bib, turn down 1½" and topstitch along serged edge.

3. With right sides together and top of bib flush with folded edge of facing, stitch ½" seam. Serge to ¼" to finish. Repeat on other side.

4. Serge outer edge of facing, around the narrow edge of facing and along the apron side to bottom.

Serge along bottom of apron.

5. Fold over ½" at apron side extending up through facing. Topstitch along serged edge.

6. Press facing to inside, Topstitch ¼" from serged edge. Repeat for other side.

7. Fold up bottom of apron 2½" to form hem. Press. Topstitch ¼" from serged edge.

8. With right sides together, sew ¼" seam along narrow edge of ties until all three pieces form one long strip.

Press seams open. Fold over ¼" on each long side and press.

9. With right sides together and edges even, sew ¼" seam along both ends of tie. Turn and press. With wrong sides together and edges even, topstitch close to edge.

Secure safety pin at one end of tie and thread through bottom opening of side of bib, up through neck opening, leaving a loop for the head to fit through, then down through other side of bib opening. Neck can be adjusted by just pulling apron up and down along tie.

Optional: You can add trim along the hem of apron if desired. I had some extra fabric so I cut a 1½" strip x 25", 23" or 21". I folded over ¼" on each long side and pressed, then serged the ends. I wrapped ½" around each side edge to the back and topstitched close to each long edge along the front side.

I thought for the first post I would publish a recipe I got from Taste of Home Magazine via Cooking.com. It is so easy and looks like you spent hours in the kitchen. They are addicting and very rich.

Chocolate Peanut Sweeties

1 cup peanut butter

½ cup butter, softened (no substitutes)

3 cups powdered sugar

3 dozen miniature pretzel twists (about 2 cups)

1 ½ cups milk chocolate chips

1 Tbsp. vegetable oil

In mixing bowl, beat peanut butter and butter until smooth. Beat in powdered sugar until combined. Shape into 1-inch balls; press one on each pretzel. Place on waxed paper-lined baking sheet. Refrigerate until peanut butter mixture is firm--about 1 hour.

In microwave-safe bowl, melt chocolate chips and oil. Dip the peanut butter ball into chocolate. Return to baking sheet, pretzel side down. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving. Store in the refrigerator. Makes about 3 dozen.